Showing posts with label Pengerang Desaru Cycling Nightmare. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pengerang Desaru Cycling Nightmare. Show all posts

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Tried to kill myself on Vesak Day and day after

Being over-bolstered by my trip to Pulau Ubin last month where I acquitted myself fairly well on the cycling tracks (only killed by up-slopes), I was overconfident enough to plan a trip to Desaru from Pengerang.

I didn't bring Mr B because it was just an overnighter, and I wanted less bulk in the bag. Ended up, much through the trip, I was alternating singing offkey "The road is long" (but I was so exhausted, I only sang that line) and wishing fervently that I had brought him along so I could sit on him, reducing the chafing of my butt cheeks).

The guys sped ahead, while B1 was stuck cycling at my granny speed and being my porter. I was so tired on the return journey that I angrily kicked the bike at one point and declared I wanted to go home. I was infuriated, imagining that the other guys were already enjoying young coconuts at Sungei Renjit (our next rest stop), while I was stuck in the middle of nowhere. The fact that I was on the middle joint of the journey where there was no more punishing slopes but plenty of dust and no wind brought me and B1 zero comfort (he was stuck motivating me like a drill sergeant, and fell at one point cos a pebble went into his spokes). I drank so much water but I was still thirsty. B1 was trying to stop me from taking any more liquid.


First Day: We could still sing "The Road is Long".

I saw a lot of younger girls cycling very fast on their mountain bikes on my return journey, keeping up with their group and it made me feel worse. I survived the 50.3km ride from Pengerang to Desaru and then the return trip the next day, totally 100.6km over two days. It was definitely B1's effort, not mine. I hardly stopped to take any photos, and had fewer stops because I was so far behind the others. I had to resort to taking photos by tying my camera to the bike handle and prayed for the best and snapped quickly while paddling. I managed to capture a bemused monkey gazing at me struggling past while he consumed a mango.

As B1 said, we were too tired to even sing "the road is long" on the way back. He marveled that the others could cycle with no seeming damage to their balls (not funny at the time, funny now). At the Punggai rest stop, Teletubby declared that he had balls of steel, and B1 suggested that we should bring a hammer and verify that claim.

As for the resort stay, thanks to the unkindness of Mother Nature, I could not even go swimming like the others. B1 sacrificed and let me soak in the bath which alleviated some of my pain. The resort looked like HDB flats on the outside with little cute turrets on top. The rooms were fantastically big, the apartment one giant maisonette with three toilets. I noticed that they catered to the Bumiputra very much, when I was talking to one of the service staff, he suddenly broke the conversation and ran off to serve a local man who came to the counter. He just pointed his younger colleague at me and basically ignored me from then on. The food was atrocious, with flies all over the place at dinner and the breakfast buffets. The dinner buffet was RM40 a person, and we were so hungry and did not realise that you could order ala carte instead. So stupid. Never order dinner buffet at the Lotus Desaru. Food is BAD, with lots of flies. My installation art piece of a cinnamon roll which had already been contaminated and egg shells helped to centralize all the fly activity.


Here are the flies at breakfast.

Activities there are expensive, the only seemingly free activity is the free movies (where you can get a corn cup at RM3), the swimming pool and the beach. The banana boat is RM150 for 15 minutes. To tell you the truth, I was infuriated when I missed the activity I had been looking forward to the most, the firefly cruise, which Mr Cigarette refused to book beforehand because he was worried that we would be too tired to go and that they may charge us beforehand. Actually the guys went swimming and the activity was at 1930hrs, there were only five seats left (we were 8 persons. And there were 30 seats originally, so given that we booked the room one month ago, we could have gotten seats on the firefly cruise beforehand) and they were still not back. I was quite annoyed at that point, thinking what was the point of all that "buddy buddy one for all" mentality when we didn't even cycle together and the others, who got to the resort much earlier, didn't even bother to book the cruise while we were still struggling at Route 90 (which was obvious that they didn't want to go). I did not enjoy the resort stay at all, despite the full moon.



Probably the whole trip was jinxed from the start, because we had to wait 2.5 hours for a boat to Pengerang. If you want to go Pengerang (esp on a holiday) you better book the fucking boat beforehand. The couple who took the boat with us, started waiting at 0730hrs, so they waited 4 hours. Due to the delay, we had to pedal at a punishing speed, esp on Route 90 where there were no street lights. I didn't want to end up like the many roadkill I encountered on the road. Total death tally: 1 yellow snake, 2 squashed unidentifiable snakes, 1 bat, 2 mice, 1 iguana, 1 montior lizard.

Mickey Mouse joked that he thought I would make up the morbid death tally, saying he would see a wizened version of me petrified on my bicycle when he next cycles this trail five years later. I actually wanted to slap him at that point, especially since he almost didn't want to give me the namecard of the uncle at the resort, who had very kindly given us his contact details in case of emergency on the road. I was so tired and in pain, and just wanted to call the uncle and Mr Cigarette almost succeeded goaded Mickey Mouse into not giving it to me. I never wanted to kill two people as much as I did then.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Planning Kota Tinggi + Pengerang Town Trip

With the success (???) of our crazy Pulau Ubin trip from Hell, the dudes wanted to extend the craziness to our neighbouring shores, this time Pengerang (Southeast side of Western Malaysia... in case you want to know, because I have been asked this five times today already). I saw the sign to Pengerang when we were waiting for our boat to Pulau Ubin at the Changi jetty that day. Pointed it out to the five guys but it seemed they were stone deaf and all ignored me. Until today, probably after they recovered their enthusiasm and also from the aches and pains from the trip, that they realised "hey, we can go there!!!"

I have been researching on what to do there. It turns out that Pengerang is a fantastic place to visit, with its indigenous creatures, ostrich farm, and affordable seafood. If accompanied with a side trip to Sungei Rengit (for seafood lunch) then to Desaru (beautiful beach) or Kota Tinggi (beautiful waterfall), it will be a completely exciting ride.

I have some doubts over cycling on roads, especially in Singapore where the drivers drive like they are wasted (and probably are. I have redoubtable faith on the power of Audi engines). But rural Malaysia? Hmm.

A few tips (from the websites I visited):

What you should bring
Passport
SGD and RM
Lots of drinking water if you are pedaling
Bikes (optional, bike surcharge on bumboat is S$2 one way)
Medical kit (if you are unlucky enough to fall down)
Bike repair kit (optional. Some sites recommend renting a van to follow you to your destination)

Getting there
Bumboats shuttle from Singapore's Changi Point Ferry Terminal to Tg Pengelih from 7 AM in the morning to 7 PM in the evening, operating on a first-come-first-served basis: once 12 people show up, the boat leaves. The journey takes about an hour and costs S$8 or RM 15 per person, plus S$2 for a bike (some sites say it is S$10, others say S$9). There are semi-scheduled departures in both directions at 7 AM and 1 PM, and the last boats back leave by 4 PM.



Coming back
1. if you are doing a day trip, remember to arrange with the bumboat uncle to meet you guys back at the jetty. If not, the jetty closes at 4, and there is no guarantee you can get the boat even if you reach there earlier.

2. To go back to SingapoUpdated!!!re, submit your passport at the first counter. The boat man will keep the passport for a while and when they collected enough passport, they will call you to collect your passport and every passenger will ask to queue up to pass through the immigration together.

The bumboat leaves when there are 12 passengers, sometimes they ask you to top up the fare so that the boat can leave earlier. Eg. The current boat fee is RM 15 per person if there are 12 passengers. If they are only 10 passengers, the boat man will ask everyone whether they are willing to pay RM 3 in extra, which is RM 18 per person, so that the boat can leave without waiting for another 2 more passengers.

3. There are at least one boat leaving from Singapore/Tanjung Pengelih to Tanjung Pengelih/Singapore at 7am and 1pm. The boat fee from Singapore is SGD 8 per person (some sites say it is S$10, others say S$9) and from Tanjung Pengelih is RM 15. But the fees from Tanjung Pengelih will become SGD 8 after 1pm. It means, the boat man will ask for Singapore dollars after 1pm.

4. The taxi fees from Sungai Rengit to Tanjung Pengelih is RM 20 per taxi or RM 5 per person. The taxi will move only when there are 4 passengers, or else you have to 'top up' the fare (包车).

If you missed the bumboat
1. Take the Merjdjan Ferry Services (tel. +60-7-8253333) speedboat service from Tanah Merah Ferry Terminal, which runs seven times a day every day except Tue and Wed departing from 7:50 AM to 3:50 PM, with the last return from Tg Pengelih at 7 PM. Taking only 20 minutes, this is much faster but also more expensive at S$28/38 one way/return.

2. Take the Sebana Cove ferry back to Singapore (4/5 services daily, last departure at 9 PM), but this is much more expensive (S$38 one-way) and you'll need to arrange a taxi to take you to Sebana Cove first.

So far, I have found some interesting reads, that I will share here:

Tristangroup (for booking dirt bikes, pit bikes, mountain bikes at Pengerang.

Sungei Renjit map (could be seriously outdated)

Pengerang blog (written by one of the locals) Talks about the wildlife, and how to access the village.

Rainforest Resort
(according to VirtualTourist, RM20 for fireflies cruise, RM30 for buffet)

Pixel's blog entry

I also managed to find a map of interesting locations nearby.



Updated!!!
The Sungei Renjit map is not outdated. Good Luck Restaurant serves Lobster that sticks to the shell. Jade Garden not that much better. They serve expensive seafood and their other dishes are edible not excellent.

Book the boat before you go, especially on a holiday. Make sure you reach the Pengerang jetty before 2pm if you are coming back by boat.

Tristan Group service was good. They returned my careless colleague's watch, after he left it strapped to the bike, driving it back to the jetty for us. Their bikes are usable but have unfriendly seats.

Do not cycle unless you have racing bikes, or are too energetic. Rent a motorbike. 50.3 km to Desaru is no joke. No street lights. Nothing. Read post on Pengerang to Desaru.


I printed this map from Bikely.com. Route 90 has few trees. Bring lots of sun block. Book the Fireflies cruise before you go.

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