When you go to Hua Lien 花蓮 by train, there is only one place you must eat at. It's 新站虱目鱼專賣店. They specialise in milkfish 虱目鱼. We were advised by the very friendly girl at the 暮署 shop nearest the train station, that it was the best food thereabouts.
The shop is located beside the brightly lit 阿美暮署 shop, and is rather dingy in comparison, but it has tons of celebrity signatures (and photos) scrawled on the white tiled walls. It also had a giant proclaimation that it was the only shop and had no franchises. It was intriguing that people, even celebrities would travel to Hualien to eat milkfish, which are indigenous to Southern Taiwan, thus proving how excellent the dishes at this restaurant are.
Anyway, we ordered milkfish soup, milkfish fishball soup, and two bowls of the ubiquitous braised meat rice. The dishes came with a delightful dipping sauce of oyster sauce (I think) and minced garlic (very sharp and fresh). The fishballs were interestingly QQ, while the fish (same fish yet different texture) was tender and cooked with lots of julienned young ginger. The fish soup was great, settling my uneasy stomach with its gentle flavour. The braised meat was QQ as well, and had a nice slice of preserved radish on it. Interesting, I should make that my new flavour of rice dumpling this time.
By the way, here's a photo of the actual 虱目鱼 if you are interested in knowing how it actually looks like.
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